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Cooking with two Russians
Yulia Converse welcomed me into her kitchen in Maine to learn from her mother, Alla Zagoruyko, how to make authentic Russian borsht.
A day of authenticity, gross assumption, and great soup
| March 11, 2009
The borscht I kissed once...
When I was working at the Harraseeket Inn in Freeport, two housekeepers who didn't speak English but giggled a lot brought in a pot of their family's borscht for the employee meal. In the dark basement hall where the employees ate, I tasted serious fami
...in an underground hallway — and rediscovered at home
| November 19, 2008
Antidote to modern life
Finally, she says, “We have in our genes to eat bigos.” No matter where we’re from, I think we all do.
Bigos, the Old-World comfort stew
| November 20, 2007
I was working on the Russian paradox, when it slapped me right in the column!
Russian around for decent Siberian food
| July 18, 2007
Like black ice, soup season comes around when it’s bone-chilling and dark and you’re craving something warm to curl your hands around.
’Tis the season for bowls of the hot stuff, from chowders to stews, bisques to consommés
| January 26, 2007
Café Polonia’s Polish Plate
Hopefully you’ll arrive at Café Polonia just as someone is leaving, because otherwise it’s a long wait outside in the cold.
Nothing to laugh about here
| January 17, 2007
Consider it much more than a promising start for Hovannes, or “Hovik,” Dolarian, better known as “O.V.” to the faithful horde of hungry regulars who fill OV’s Restaurant, an easily accessible, toaster-oven sized diner on Allens Avenue.
Manhandling the munchies
| September 20, 2006
Antico Forno’s gnocchi di patate
From potstickers and pierogies to kreplach and raviolis, the dumpling stretches across the food world.
| September 13, 2006
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